Sequences comparaison: The Fifth Element of Realization
By : Serviette
(Wikipedia.com) Realization, also known as Biographie, is a sport climb in Ceüse, France. While not having been graded by its first ascensionist (Chris Sharma in July 2001), it is generally considered to be 5.15a or 9a+.
Biographie is located in Ceuse, France. Most of the climbers who've been to Ceuse describe it as... the dream crag. It sits right there, on the top of the hill, overhanging the quiet town of Gap. It was a secret amongst locals for many years. Around 1990, Jean-Christophe Lafaille bolted this impressive project on the coolest wall. The route spanked the strongest french climbers for a few years. The 35 meter route seemed too futuristic and Arnaud Petit decided to put anchors at a rest halfway. He climbed that first pitch in 1996 and gave it 8c+.
Pictures of Biographie made the headlines of climbing magazines and the same year Chris Sharma checked it out. He made a quick second ascent of the first "pitch" and started working on the full line right away. Afters years of work, Sharma climbed the whole thing. He named it Realization. His epic battle was followed by thousands of climbers on the late climbXmedia and the final send is one of Big Up Productions best film. American magazines hyped the climb and called it the world first real 9a+ (5.15a).
Beside the rating, the fact that Chris renamed the route created another controversy. In France, the guys who put the bolts name the route, not the first ascentionist like in the USA. It's not the first time a controversy like that happens. In 1989, Ben Moon did the first ascent of the hardest route in France and named it Maginot Line (named after a French military disaster). While the French press always called the route as Le Plafond, the English media always referred to it as Maginot Line.
But enough politics, Biographie now has 5 ascents, all of which have been recorded for your viewing pleasure.
First ascent, Chris Sharma, July 2001. Video by the Lowell Bros.
The second ascent was done in 2004 by a local, Sylvain Millet. The following video is commented by Sylvain (in French) who says a bunch of interesting thing about the climb and himself.
The third ascent by Patxi Usobiaga was also in 2004, shortly after Sylvain's send.
The fourth ascent waited until 2007 when Dave Graham finally clip the anchors.
Ethan Pringle send is on MVM.