Sequence comparaison: Dreamtime
By : Serviette
(Planetmontain) Dreamtime is its name, located in Switzerland's Cresciano. A perfect dream line, cultivated, attempted again and again until freed. A true boulder problem, maximum intensity, the sit-start leads in 21 moves through a 50° overhang to the top. Ten meters in length, made possible by the fact that the ground slopes all the way, keeping falls… acceptable.
Dreamtime is divided into two sections with a "concentration break" at half-height. The first section, a fingery 8a+, leads to a 2 cm edge from where one chalks up and dynos into the second section, an 8b+ in its own right. 45° slopers, push moves and a series of undercuts lead to the mantleshelf finish. Maximum intensity and breathless.
There has been a big debate about the grade of this problem, that was a benchmark for 8C (it has been the first problem to get a Font 8C/ V15 - first ascent Fred Nicole 2000), but has been downgraded after few holds have been chipped/improved.
Bern Zangerl
Dave Graham
Dai Koyamada
Chris Sharma
Nalle Hukkutaival